How To Make An Oversize Shirt
Everyone needs an oversized shirt for this time of year. Many years ago I used to pinch my Dad’s to wear layered up over various band T-shirts, but now I can make my own. This design works in all seasons, as you can choose fabrics that keep you cool in summer and warm in winter.
I love the process of shirt making! It can be quite technical, but the slow consideration that goes into sewing this kind of project is incredibly rewarding. This particular shirt has a convertible collar, meaning that it can be worn either buttoned up or open, so it’s a lovely one to start with if you are new to making shirts.
This project may take you several sewing sessions, so I like to batch similar processes or steps together to make things more streamlined. I have done this with the instructions to help you work in a similar way.
How To Choice Fabric Oversize Shirt
This shirt would work in a soft denim or checked plaid, but I prefer linen. If you wish, you can use a contrasting fabric for the inner yoke.
How do you make an oversized shirt at home?
YOU WILL NEED
- 2.3–2.5m (21/2–23/4yd) main fabric,150cm (60in) wide
- 25cm (10in) contrasting fabric for the inner yoke (optional)
- 50cm (20in) lightweight iron-on interfacing
- Matching thread
- 8 buttons 1.5–2cm (5/8–3/4in) in diameter
- Basic sewing kit
PATTERN INVENTORY
- A Front – cut 2
- B Back – cut 1 on the fold
- C Yoke – cut 2 on the fold (you can use a contrast fabric for the inner yoke if you prefer)
- D Collar – cut 2 on the fold in fabric and 1 on the fold in interfacing
- E Front facing – cut 2 in fabric and 2 in interfacing
- F Sleeve – cut 2
- G Sleeve tabs– cut 4
- H Pocket – cut 2
All seam allowances are 1.5cm (5/8in) unless otherwise stated.
Get Your Pattern Now!! camisole and shorts - PDF sewing pattern
DIY Oversized Shirt
1 Cut out the pattern pieces, following the lay plans.
2 Transfer the pattern markings to your fabric.
3 Apply interfacing to the upper collar and front facing pieces (a). Stay stitch around the neckline on the front facings, shirt fronts and yoke pieces (b) Finish the outer edges of the facings.
POCKETS, COLLAR AND PLACKETS
4 Neaten the top edges of the pockets. Fold over the tops of the pockets along the fold line so that the right sides are together. Taking a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance, sew across the short ends to create a facing.
5 Turn the pocket facing right side out and winkle out the corners. Press under the seam allowances around the sides of the pockets, mitring the corners. Work two rows of topstitching across the bottom of the pocket facing to hold it in place.
6 Place the pockets on the shirt fronts along the placement lines. Topstitch in place with two rows of stitching, reinforcing the top corners with box stitching.
7 Trim 3mm (1/8in) from the outer edge and short sides of the under collar. This makes it roll under slightly for a better finish to the collar.
8 With right sides together, centre the under collar on the inner edge of the upper collar. Ease the under collar out to fit the upper collar. Pin and sew along the outer edge of the collar. Trim the seam allowance down to 5mm (1/4in) and trim off the corners .
9 Turn the collar right side out and carefully press it flat so that the seam is just on the edge. Topstitch the collar from the right side for a bit of extra detail and decoration, working two rows of stitching.
10 Place a pair of sleeve tabs right sides together. Sew around with a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance, leaving the straight short edge open (a). Clip off the corners (b). Turn right side out, winkle out the corners and press flat. You can topstitch around the point for added detail if you wish. Mark and sew buttonholes to fit your buttons (c). Repeat with the second pair of tabs.
BACK YOKES AND FRONT FACINGS
11 Match up the pleat markings on the on the shirt back, fold the fabric along the lines in the direction of the arrows and press to create a box pleat. Machine baste across the pleat, inside the seam allowance, to hold it in place.
12 With right sides together, matching up the notches along the yoke line, lay the outer yoke over the shirt back. Pin and sew together. Press the yoke and the seam allowance up, away from the shirt back.
13 With right sides together, matching up the notches along the shoulders, lay the shirt fronts over the outer yoke. Pin and sew together along the shoulder seams. Press the yoke and seam allowances away from the shirt front.
14 With the under collar next to the right side of the yoke, place the collar on the back neckline. Pin together, matching up the notches and making sure the front edge of the collar sits on the small dots on the shirt fronts. Machine baste in place.
15 With right sides together, lining up the neck edge and the edge of the facing with the notches at the shoulders, pin the front facings to the inner yoke. Sew the seams and press towards the yoke.
16 With right sides together, place the inner yoke and front facing on the shirt. You will create a sandwich, with the collar as the filling (a). Pin and sew all the way around – across the bottom of the facing at the hem, up one side of the front, around the neckline, back down the other front edge and across the facing at the hem (b). Be sure to pivot at the corners and at the small dots at the ends of the collar.
17 Clip the corners and layer the seam allowance of the facing. Snip into the curved neck seam allowance to release the tension in the seam and allow the neck to sit flat. Trim back the hem of the front facing to 1cm (3/8in).
18 Turn out the collar and front facings to the right side. Carefully winkle out the corners and roll the seam so that it sits right on the edge. Give it a good steam and press. Work two rows of topstitching from the hem up the front edge and around the corner to meet the topstitching on the collar. Do the same on both edges of the front opening.
19 With the shirt back right side up in front of you (a), roll up the back until it sits on top of the yoke (b). The yoke seam will be visible. Fold the inner yoke out over the collar and rolled-up shirt back to meet the back yoke seam. Pin together, lining up the notches, and sew across the back yoke seam through all three layers (c).
20 Carefully pull the roll of fabric out through one of the gaps between the inner and outer yoke pieces at the armhole. Keep gently pulling it through until the whole shirt has turned itself right side out. It will seem like a never-ending task, but just keep going: it will work!
21 Once turned through, flatten out the yoke and press along the bottom seam where it joins the shirt back. Topstitch from the right side along the seam line on the yoke. At the shoulder seams, press under the seam allowance on the inner yoke so that it just covers the shoulder seam. Pin in place and topstitch from the right side.
SLEEVES AND TABS
22 Press under 1cm (3/8in) on the short, open edge of the first tab. Place this folded edge to the top placement marks on the wrong side of the sleeve. Sew in a square between the placement dots (a). On the right side, sew the button just above the centre of the stitched square (b). Repeat with the second tab.
23 Place the sleeve, with the large dot sitting on the dot on the yoke that marks the shoulder line. Walk the sleeve around the armhole so that the underarm seams match and the notches line up, then pin in place. Sew and neaten the seam. Press towards the body of the shirt. Repeat with the second sleeve.
24 Fold the shirt inside out and sew up the underarm seams, matching up the cuffs, armhole seams and side notches. Neaten the seams and press towards the front.
HEMS AND BUTTONS
25 Press up the hems on the sleeves and shirt by 1cm (3/8in), then press up again by 1.5cm (5/8in). Topstitch around the sleeves and hem.
26 Using the pattern markings as a guide, transfer the buttonhole lines onto the right-hand side of the shirt front. Make sure they are in the correct place for you; adjust them if necessary.
27 Sew buttonholes the correct size for your buttons and carefully cut them open. Lay out the shirt and mark the button positions through the buttonholes along the centre front line. Sew on the buttons in the correct places.
